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Whenever compiling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might expect familiar high-end names. But, nestled high among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has made the family completely astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small place securing such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary triumph.