Edward Enninful discusses Today's Society: 'Britain Feels Less Tolerant Now' Than in the 90s.
An unexpected discovery on the London Underground in 1988 transformed the course of a teenage Ghanaian arrival to Britain. Spotted by a talent scout, Edward Enninful was swiftly pulled into the capital's buzzing 1990s creative scene, progressing from model to stylist and, before turning twenty, becoming the fashion director of the iconic i-D.
"That era was the zenith of the YBA movement – Tracey Emin, Jay Jopling. I encountered Kate Moss at a casting," he recalls. "Then Naomi Campbell for a cover, and I felt we’d be close. We all socialised across disciplines. Friday rolled into Saturday into Sunday. I miss that spontaneity."
If Enninful sounds sentimental, he is far from alone. Recently, a wistful romanticisation of the 1990s has grown intense. Yet over the last thirty years, Enninful feels a significant change. "In my view, we’re more divided now than we were in the 90s," he observes. "This isn't just this country – it’s everywhere."
Shifting Attitudes
This regression is increasingly evident: the resurgence of populist movements, the reaction against progressive values, and the return of traditional beauty standards. Replacing the hope of the Blair era, currently a more divisive political figure stands as a potential leader. Even, the British flag, once an badge of Cool Britannia, has sparked debate once more.
For Enninful, the response has consistently been to champion culture in all its variety. This was the driving force behind his seminal issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a portrait of modern Britain, showcasing a diverse array of prominent faces from politics.
"Those in a position of influence should wield it," he comments, explaining those editorial decisions. "There is much discussion about immigration; I would not be in this position if Britain were not a open country, if it refused my family a home and an opportunity. That’s the Britain I believed in. I trust this period will fade."
A New Wave of Consciousness
He takes comfort in the next generation: "They are far more conscious than we were. They talk about systemic issues – I didn't even know what that was."
Those early experiences would shape a groundbreaking career characterised by fearlessness and diversity. Enninful broke barriers as the first male, first black man, first openly gay person, and first disabled Black gay man to lead at British Vogue. His time featured historic front pages showcasing people of diverse backgrounds, curvy models, older individuals, and individuals from all walks of life. Critically, sales rose.
"Ignoring vast segments of the population, it’s more than that you’re not being inclusive – it’s bad for business," he emphasises.
A New Chapter as a 'Disruptor'
He has since founded his new venture EE72 and its accompanying magazine, 72, his key endeavour since moving on from his previous role. He states his aim to continue being a "change-maker".
"I’ve always questioned the status quo. I was raised in a place where everybody was black – the physicians, the lawyers, the president. Then we came to England, without funds, and I found myself on the margins. I was incredibly timid. My teachers said I’d have no future. Me and my brothers were subject to police stops the Sus laws … all that gave me a sense of being between worlds."
In contrast to the stereotype of industry figures as brash and temperamental, Enninful is softly spoken and projects peace. His journey has included its share of adversity, including well-documented periods of mental health and substance use.
He has also endured significant health issues, having undergone several surgeries on his eyes, resulting in partial sight. "I experienced such a time of fear for two years, away from work, terrified I was going to lose my sight. It’s like PTSD; you just exist in a state of dread 24/7. I vowed, if this ever ends, I’m just going to embrace every opportunity that I was so scared to do. I’m not going to limit myself to just being an editor or a fashion person."
The Tate Britain Exhibition
This drive to be typecast has led him beyond the industry that built his career. He is now organising a major 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, featuring work by a roster of pivotal artists and photographers from the era. The show, he notes, aims to explore the decade's artistic collaboration – and highlight those who lacked due recognition at the time.
"Institutions often failed to shine a light on the most relevant talents because they weren't of the right pedigree," he observes.
The magazine 72 itself functions with a unique business model, eschewing traditional advertising in favour of integrated partnerships. "Our approach is, what can we create collaboratively? Is it an experience, a series? The magazine is one component of a greater ecosystem."
An Unstoppable Drive
Now, Enninful stands as one of the world's most respected cultural influencers. His path, he feels, is a testament to the power of following your instincts.
What would the younger Edward react to the Edward of today? He chuckles. "It would be a surprise, but he’d be impressed. At that time I was a rebel. I would not have believed institutions like Tate were necessarily for me."
He reflects. "I never take anything for granted. We were displaced, we left our homeland. I nearly lost my vision. So fear isn't an option. People have counted me out my entire life. But nothing can stop me once I’ve made up my mind to do something."
